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Starting to feel at home away from home

January 21, 2019 | Happening Now

After our trip to the grocery store, Char cooked up a pot of lentil soup. This is part of our easy-meal-on-demand strategy. It keeps for days in the fridge and provides an easy answer to the most common question of all marriages: What’s for dinner?

The aroma of lentil soup fills the apartment this afternoon as it drifts toward the open window overlooking the courtyard. A trip to the grocery store refreshed our supplies. We enjoyed a short afternoon walk along the Tomebamba River as we took a roundabout way to the grocer. But as our shelves were nearly bare, by the time we had finished buying provisions for the next few days, we had acquired far too items to conveniently walk home. Fortunately, shoppers can get a taxi at the taxi stand just outside of the store. Seems many people here do not have a car, and taxis are a convenient and inexpensive method (our fare for a 15-minute ride was $1.37) to get home with several bags of groceries. All we need now is to buy some cherries from one of the many street vendors who cart them around in wheel barrows and an avocado. Char is fussy about avocados, and she didn’t like the ones in the store. I’m sure we’ll find just what she wants at the mercado, which is a huge produce and meat market.

Finding things to do: So far, everything is within walking distance

Cuenca’s old church, El Sagrario, was built in 1557 when the city was founded. Today it is a recital hall and religious museum.

Cuenca was founded in 1557. One of the first projects of the inhabitants of the new city was to build a church. I have noticed that when any city was founded in these parts, building a church is one of the first enterprises undertaken. In any event, this old church, called El Sagrario, is now a concert hall and museum. Last Friday, Char and I attended a concert by the Cuenca symphony orchestra. I found it quite relaxing. I have not attended many live concerts of any kind during my life, but on the occasions that I have, I have always enjoyed them. As it turns out, the University of Cuenca’s symphony orchestra will be performing this Thursday night, and we plan to attend that performance as well. They will be playing selections from Beethoven and Mozart.

The Tomebamba River (Tomebamba is the name the Incas gave to the river) is one of four rivers that course through Cuenca. The name Cuenca means a basin made by a confluence of rivers, and the city’s formal name is Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca, or, Saint Ann of the four rivers of Cuenca.

Walking around the city

Saturday morning was a bit rainy as we joined a free walking tour of the city. Our guide was bilingual, as you probably could have guessed, and alternated speaking English and Spanish for the tour-goers. We visited churches, of course, and several of the colonial houses still well preserved and at least partly responsible for Cuenca being designated as a World Heritage Site. I have always admired this sort of architecture. Basically, it is a house built in a square around a courtyard. I’m living in one now, but not nearly as grand as those we visited.

This is the courtyard of one of the houses we visited, and is probably 100 to 150 years old. This is completely unseen from the street. I find this type of architecture quite attractive.

The tour ended at the Museo del Sombrero, which I told you about in an earlier post. As it was lunch time, we asked our guide where we might go to eat, saying we would like some authentic Ecuadorian food. She sent us to a local restaurant, Restaurante Cositas, which, she said, served the authentic fare of Cuencanos. That was just what we wanted. Every time I go to a place like this, I always wonder if I will be challenged by what I order.

Restaurante Cositas. This is the dining area just off of the street at Reatuarante Cositas. There is also a dining area at the rear of the restaurant. Notice the 33-1/3 rpm vinyl LPs at the service counter and the 45 rpm discs on the wall.

The menu looked quite good. You can see many of the menu items posted on the wall. Both of the plates we ordered included choclo, which is a large-kernel variety of field corn from the Andes. My plate had two different preparations of choclo. And, of course, we were served potatoes, which are ubiquitous in South America, especially Ecuador. Char’s plate had french fries, mine had two patties. The choclo is a bit unusual and modestly flavorful. Inasmuch as I was served two versions of the corn, I am guessing that it is a staple, like potatoes, and that there are probably a zillion different ways to prepare it. It was a tasty lunch. Our two plates together, and three beers, came to $23. As my plate was quite large, I asked for a box (in Spanish, no less) to take the leftovers home. That was my dinner Saturday night.

Take a look. Two different preparations of choclo, which is a large-kernel variety of field corn from the Andes–one under a beef patty, the other under a sausage. And, of course, the everlasting potato, here served in two patties, topped with a little mild salsa.

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Category: Happening Now

About Joseph Koppi

Joseph Koppi is a traveler and writer with over 40 years of writing experience. He currently treks the world, writing about his adventures in foreign lands and with the amazing people he encounters. Read More

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About BoomerTrekker

When you travel, only one of two things can happen: something good or something bad; either way, you have a story to tell.

Boomertrekker.com is the cave wall on which I try to etch the stories and pictures of my travel experiences. You will find stories of setting out to go one place, but arriving at another; of finding, quite by accident, experiences that I could not have anticipated; of meeting and becoming friends with people whose language I cannot speak. Sometimes you will find me paralyzed and out of my comfort zone, as I was in Cambodia when I regretfully let pass my opportunity to eat a cricket. At other times, I hope you marvel, as I have, at the intelligence and ingenuity and inventiveness of ancient peoples everywhere. These are the stories I tell here. They are the stories of my travels to foreign lands in which I am the foreigner. Read More

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Recent Comments

  • Claudine on We’re headed south for winter in the Andes

    Glad you have arrived safely and are settled in. The Farmer's Market looks luscious. And the weath......

  • Andrea on We’re headed south for winter in the Andes

    I'm so happy for both of you.. continue enjoying Cuenca!! :) xoxo...

  • Jeanine Ryan on We’re headed south for winter in the Andes

    Thanks for taking me along! I look forward to reading more!...

  • Judy Horsnell on We’re headed south for winter in the Andes

    Joe, enjoy your escape to that beautiful area of the world; really, you are not missing anything bac......

  • Marsha on We’re headed south for winter in the Andes

    So happy you are able to get away from the cold and be in such a neat place. Looking forward to foll......

BoomerTrekker

Joseph Koppi is a freelance travel writer with over 40 years of writing and communications experience in both the media and corporate arenas. He currently treks around the world, writing about his adventures in foreign lands and with the amazing people he encounters. Read More

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